A Legacy Rooted in Excellence
Located high on Mt. Veeder, deep in the Mayacamas Mountains, PYM-RAE Tesseron Estate is more than just a winery—it is the convergence of tradition, innovation, and sustainability. Originally named Villa Sorriso (Villa of Smiles) and the once private vineyard and estate of the late Robin Williams, this unique property found new life when Alfred Tesseron–the owner of Bordeaux’s well-respected 1855 Classified Growth, Château Pontet-Canet–acquired it in 2016. With deep-rooted experience in organic and biodynamic viticulture, the Tesseron family set out to transform the estate into a world-class expression of Napa’s terroir while maintaining an unwavering commitment to sustainability.
From the moment I stepped onto the estate, it was clear that PYM-RAE is something unique and special. Every detail, from vineyard management to the meticulous winemaking process, reflects a philosophy centered on purity, balance, and respect for the land. “People have to enjoy the wines,” Alfred Tesseron said. “Wine is about bringing people together, sharing moments, and respecting the land.”
Bridging Bordeaux and Napa
For Alfred Tesseron, venturing into Napa Valley was not about replicating Bordeaux but about embracing a new terroir while applying the same principles of precision and patience that have defined Château Pontet-Canet. PYM-RAE’s vineyards, planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot, mirror the traditional Bordeaux blend, but the wines themselves showcase the singular character of Napa’s volcanic soils and rich mountain climate.
A key element of PYM-RAE’s success is the exchange of knowledge between the family’s properties in France and California. Jérôme Ledit, the estate’s winemaker and manager, brings a wealth of expertise, having worked with Michel Chapoutier’s German and Alsace wine label, Schieferkopf, understanding mountain terrain and vineyards and has worked closely with the team at Pontet-Canet. His ability to understand the nuances of steep hillside vineyards and to apply biodynamic farming techniques in a new environment has been instrumental in shaping the wines of PYM-RAE. At the estate, they are not afraid to experiment.
“We try all the time to adjust the little things, and I think this is the way. Sometimes, we’re not always right. We are human and we make mistakes,” Tesseron acknowledged.
Organic and Biodynamic Farming with a Commitment to Purity
From day one, the Tesseron family committed to farming PYM-RAE organically and biodynamically, obtaining both CCOF (California Certified Organic Farmers) and Demeter certifications by 2019. Unlike many wineries that hesitate to take this step due to the challenges of biodynamic farming in Napa’s variable climate, Pym-Rae embraced it wholeheartedly.
“When we arrived, we went for certification immediately,” Tesseron states. “There is no discussion.”
By treating the vineyard as a living ecosystem, the team ensures that the land remains healthy and self-sustaining for generations to come. “We have a permanent vineyard crew, and they are picking and sorting,” Ledit explains. “We try to keep them part of the estate, so they know the vineyard. They know what we expect from one year to the other.”
This careful stewardship is reflected in the wines themselves. When tasting the 2016 PYM-RAE, with Tesseron and Ledit, it was impressive to see them achieve such brilliance on their first vintage. The wines seemed to get better as I tasted through them, while having a conversation about biodynamic practices and their commitment to quality winemaking and environmental stewardship.
Innovation and Precision
One of the defining features of PYM-RAE’s approach is its use of small-lot micro-vinification. With 40 individual fermenters for their 19-acre vineyard, each parcel of fruit is treated with the utmost precision, allowing for a nuanced expression of site and vintage.
“Every vintage has a story,” Tesseron explains. “Every vintage has to be the vintage, never trying to copy something.” Later, adding that the vision of the property is focused on the quality of wine and the land from which the wine is grown, “I don’t like the term ‘winemaker.’ ‘Maker’ to me is for a factory. We are farmers.”
Rather than imposing a house style, Alfred Tesseron insists that each vintage of PYM-RAE must tell its own story. This philosophy is evident in the glass of how the wines develop over time. Upon sitting down with Tesseron and Ledit, they presented a booklet about the estate, which I quickly thumbed through in a matter of seconds, instantly recognizing the images and wording from the digital packet sent days before. It wasn’t until I returned home later that night that I noticed a small detail that I quickly overlooked while at the property. From my days of working the floor in some of America’s best fine-dining restaurants, I have an eye for the details. While at the estate, I commented on their attention to detail on the wine label and bottle, having the wax closure match the same color as the vintage on the label. Noticed that they had taken the time to imprint the logo on top of the wax. Alfred Tesseron was happy to share one additional detail with me: the location of the Zodiac for the harvest of each vintage inside the wooden case for their wines. Upon returning home, I organized my notes, files and tasting materials, and that’s when I noticed the stitching on their information booklet was held together with green stitching that was on-brand for their color scheme. While all of these small details have nothing to do with how a wine tastes or its quality level, I do find that those who have that keen sense of awareness tend to make great products. PYM-RAE does indeed do just that by creating world-class wines by using that same level of attention to detail in their vineyards and their cellar. And the wine is better for it.
Navigating Napa’s Climate Challenges
One of the greatest challenges facing Napa Valley vintners today is the increasing threat of wildfires. The 2017 fires, which devastated parts of the region, had a direct impact on PYM-RAE, forcing the estate to make difficult decisions about which grapes to include in the final blend.
“We lost quite a bit of wine, although none of the Cabernet Franc is in the 2017 vintage,” Tesseron admits. “The Cabernet Franc was not ripe at harvest time. And if we had picked them before, they would not have been good because they would not have been ripe. But we picked them for fun, to learn. And we picked them after the fire. And we made quite an interesting wine, but it will not go in the wine in 2017.”
Rather than compromising quality, the team chose to omit smoke-tainted and smoke-affected fruit, demonstrating a commitment to integrity that reinforces consumer trust. “In business, you have to think long term,” Tesseron emphasizes. “Imagine, if somebody finds a bottle of PYM-RAE that is not up to our standards, we are dead before we even start.”
Looking ahead, the estate is actively developing strategies to mitigate future risks. Plans are underway to construct an underground winery—an ambitious project that would not only enhance production capabilities but also protect against the unpredictability of California’s climate.
A Family-Driven Future
While Alfred Tesseron remains deeply involved, the future of PYM-RAE lies in the hands of the next generation. His son, Noé, oversees operations at PYM-RAE and the family’s Cognac estate, while his daughter manages Pontet-Canet in Bordeaux. The family’s interconnected approach ensures that knowledge is shared across all properties, fostering innovation and continuity.
“We have a way of working that we are all involved,” Tesseron says. “So, when we travel, we show our different wines. We show the Cognac. And we show what we can do.”
In the same vein of “family first,” Alfred and the Tesseron family were moved by Robin Williams’ love for his children, shown by naming the estate after their middle names, “Pym” and “Rae,” the Tesseron family decided to preserve this name, adding it to both the estate and its fine wine, solidifying its continuity and dedication to family.
PYM-RAE’s Place in Napa’s Future
As the estate continues to evolve, one thing remains certain: PYM-RAE is setting a new standard for what Napa Cabernet can be. By marrying the time-honored traditions of Bordeaux with the bold spirit of Napa, the Tesseron family has created a winery that stands for purity, patience, and an unyielding respect for nature.
Reflecting on my visit, I am reminded that there are many ways to make wine, but the wines that excite me the most are the ones that have character. With PYM-RAE, it’s easy to see a thread of commonality throughout each wine, but each wine has its own personality.
For those seeking wines that balance power with finesse, depth with freshness, and structure with elegance, PYM-RAE delivers that experience. With a steadfast commitment to organic and biodynamic farming, a focus on small-lot precision, and a philosophy rooted in authenticity, the estate is producing world-class wines with integrity and singularity.
And for those lucky enough to visit, a glass of PYM-RAE is more than just a taste of fine wine. It is a glimpse into a budding Napa legacy, one that honors the land, celebrates the people behind it, and continues to evolve with every passing vintage.
Final Thoughts
As I continue to roll out coverage of the world of wine at large, I intend to highlight key figures and producers in the wine industry who exemplify and bring about the meaningful change that we so desperately need. One of those aspects will be an award for sustainability and dedication to preserving the Earth and soil while creating great wines without harming the land and ecosystem. These green initiatives are more important than ever, and we need to protect our environment. While more visits to PYM_RAE are still needed to confirm, I am announcing that PYM-RAE has been shortlisted for a GREEN EARTH award. In all of humanity’s history, we have found but one magic blue planet that can support life, and it is up to us to preserve it for the following generations.
–Wines tasted in this article–
2009 Château Pontet-Canet
The 2009 Pontet-Canet remains fresh and classic, showcasing elegance with mineral-driven notes and a firm tannic structure. Its fresh characteristics are complemented by a medium body, contributing to its impressive aging potential. This wine is distinctly mineral-driven and offers a long, complex finish that is both lengthy and elegant—truly a remarkable example of Bordeaux. It stands out as a masterclass in winemaking and is clearly exceeding expectations for its status as a fifth-growth Bordeaux. 98 Drink 2018–2045
2016 PYM-RAE
Made from a blend of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot and 7% Cabernet Franc, the 2016 PYM-RAE red wine is incredibly fresh and tight, featuring firm tannins. It presents a deep magenta color, exuding both freshness and complexity with notes of crème de cassis, complemented by fine mineral tension and leafy undertones of tea leaf. Full-bodied yet still tight, the wine showcases a mineral-driven profile and will require additional time to mature. It promises to be an age-worthy powerhouse. This fantastic inaugural vintage marks a monumental success as the beginning of the Tesseron legacy in Napa. Bravo! 98 Drink 2026–2050
2017 PYM-RAE
The 2017 PYM-RAE is 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot, creating a bold and juicy wine featuring delicate notes of purple flowers in the glass. It boasts a classic Napa Cabernet nose, characterized by a harmonious balance of fruit and oak, offering a freshness that’s enjoyable even in its youth. With a medium to full body, this wine has gripping tannins, making it an excellent pairing for roasted meats and wild game. 96 Drink 2024–2045
2018 PYM-RAE
Every so often, a truly remarkable wine comes along that will remain in your memory for a lifetime. The 2018 PYM-RAE is such a wine. It is a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, and 5% Cabernet Franc. This beautiful wine–flirting with triple digits–offers a classic freshness with a captivating combination of red and black fruits that reflects its unique terroir on top of Mount Veeder. Medium to full-bodied, it exudes elegance and grace with sophistication and power, showcasing notes of blackberry, black cherry, and cassis, all complemented by well-integrated oak. The finish is long and persistent, and it just doesn’t quit! It’s an utterly impressive wine that has me smitten. If you can find it, then the time, effort, and money spent to buy an entire case will be well worth it! Bravo! 99 Drink 2026–2060
2019 PYM-RAE
Composed of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, and 5% Cabernet Franc, the 2019 is big and juicy, showcasing an abundance of attractive fruit and remarkable freshness. Medium to full-bodied, it features a velvety texture and a complex profile with hints of blue, black, and dark red fruits. The wine delivers elegance and grace, paired with firm tannins and a spicy, juicy finish. Well done! 98+ Drink 2025–2055
2020 PYM-RAE
Mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, with 25% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc, the 2020 PYM-RAE is fresh and delightfully herbal, featuring complex layers of violets and basil that showcase style, sense of place, and regionality. With a world-class approach, the wine evolves into a full-bodied expression that somersaults to a long, lingering finish. It is a complex and refreshing choice that will satisfy Cabernet lovers around the globe. The balance of fruit, herbs, and oak, complemented by floral notes, is truly beautiful. Keep an eye out for this producer, and good luck finding any of their exquisite wines! 97 Drink 2027–2060
